This is the first of two articles covering Derby Station. Look for our second experience on Friday, from Donna Batdorff.
On a sweltering Saturday night, I ventured out with a friend to find a reprieve from the weather. Enticed by the thought of a cool drink, we ended up at Derby Station in Gaslight Village.
The dining room has a great British pub feel — dark, cozy, lots of wood and high-backed booths. Hot or not, it was far too nice a day to stay inside, so we opted for the patio. Our hostess was very friendly and even lend me a hand in adjusting the umbrella on our table. The patio afforded some great people-watching opportunities, as it seemed half the neighborhood was out walking down Wealthy or playing in the fountain located in front of the parking ramp.
Derby Station has an extensive and interesting beer menu, as well as a full bar. While I was poring over the beer list, our server arrived and recommended the featured draft selection of Raspberry Lemonade ($5), a mix of Leinenkugel Summer Shandy and Timmerman’s Framboise. Seeing that Summer Shandy is a warm weather favorite of mine, I opted to go for it. Despite looking like Kool-Aid, the drink managed to be both sweet and tart, but not overly fruity. A home run, for sure.
We ordered the Crab, Apple and Blue Cheese Dip ($9) as an appetizer. It arrived hot and bubbly, with pita wedges, carrots and celery for dipping. My friend, Laura, and I enjoyed the dip, though we agreed that the apple taste got a bit lost. Maybe it would have worked better if the celery were replaced with apple slices.
Our server was pleasant and checked on us frequently as we tried to narrow down our dinner selections. In the end, Laura chose the Reuben ($9) with a side of Garlic Sautéed Zucchini and Squash ($2). I went with one of the July seasonal entrees of Steamed Mussels ($13). The menu ranges from classic British pub food to edgy twists on comfort classics. I look forward to trying the Lasagna ($8) made with braised beef tongue on another visit.
I’ll admit that I am a shellfish junkie, especially when it comes to mussels. If they’re on a restaurant menu, it’s a pretty safe bet that I will order them. I was eagerly awaiting their arrival, so I was pleased when our entrees came out fairly quickly.
Laura’s Reuben was massive. It also looked fairly messy and I don’t know anyone who could have finished it in one sitting. Her comments were that it was good overall, if not particularly surprising. The zucchini and squash were tasty and well-cooked.
So how were the much anticipated mussels? They were good, but not great. The mussels themselves were perfectly cooked and very flavorful, but the rest of the dish fell a bit short for me. I think there was too much going on. The combination of roasted corn, basil, spinach, garlic, bacon and citrus in the sauce was a bit overpowering. All of those strong flavors ended up competing instead of complimenting one another. Subtracting a couple of ingredients would have simplified the dish and really allowed the flavors to shine.
Overall, the experience was a positive one and I’m sure I’ll go back again. Derby Station is a great place to unwind. A full pint glass and an inventive menu always wins points with me.
